| Score: |
93+ ST.
"Red-ruby. Deeply fruity aromas of blackberry, raspberry, violet and bitter chocolate. Wonderfully precise and penetrating, with uncanny definition and detail for a 2003. The black fruit and violet flavors are lifted by a minty, medicinal element on the back end. Impressively concentrated, vibrant wine, finishing with noble tannins and outstanding persistence. Jean-Marie Fourrier described 2004 as ‘a grower's year, one in which every action in the vineyard created a reaction in the winemaking and in elevage.’ Fourrier noted that the sulfur sprays that were critical to controlling oidium have brought reduction in the wines, which is giving the young 2004s some bitterness in barrel, and that racking is necessary to bring oxygen. Because the veraison was so late (it began August 24 in his vineyards), Fourrier did some leaf pulling on the north side of the vines in late August and early September, while removing some rotten grapes during the same pass through the vines. Fourrier told me he bought a vibrating sorting table, but still decided to eliminate the hail-damaged fruit in the vines. Ultimately, he says, the 2004s are ‘pure, elegant wines but not deep or dark. They don't have a massive structure.’" Stephen Tanzer, Vinous.com, Mar 2006 |