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96 AG. "The 2017 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru is a pretty big step up in this range, both in terms of depth, power and energy. Here the flavors are dark, while there is quite a bit of tannin lurking beneath. Black cherry, graphite, leather, smoke, spice and menthol infuse the 2017 with tons of virile, somber character. Readers will have to be very patient. A whole range of sepia-toned aromas and flavors shrouded in tannin add depth to an imposing Grands-Echézeaux built for cellaring. Harvest was on September 12. The annual presentation of new releases from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in early March was the last event I attended before lockdown. Aubert and Bertrand de Villaine were in town to present the new vintage, 2017, with a small sit-down tasting hosted by long-time importer Wilson Daniels. Initially I thought I would publish this article as a bookend, when things returned to normal. Back then, I could have never imagined where we would be today. After reading Neal Martin’s article Complex, Not Complicated: 2017 DRC in Bottle chronicling the London edition of this tasting, I decided to shamelessly rip off his format. So, here you have my version." Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com, Mar 2020 |