| Score: |
98 JG.
"The 2004 Montrachet from Dominique Lafon has evolved brilliantly since I last saw the wine out of barrel in the fall of 2005, and it has to be one of the greatest white wines of the vintage. The deep, gem-like and youthful nose soars from the glass in a magical mélange of apple, pear, orange zest, iodine, stunningly complex minerality, spring flowers and a discreet base of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and very racy, with a marvelous core of fruit, laser-like focus, zesty, youthful acids and simply profound length and grip on the nascently complex and oh, so refined finish. A great, great bottle of Montrachet in the making, in a perfect world I would not touch this for another half dozen years at least. But, as we all know, we no longer live in a perfect world for white Burgundy, as the scourge of premox might rear its ugly head with any bottle we put in the cellar, and given just how beautifully this wine is drinking in its youth, it would be far from criminal to start serving this wine now. Just call me if you do." John Gilman, View From the Cellar #39, Jun 2012 |