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The February 2024 Auction: Part 3
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1 / 2Lot 350
Estimate: $725
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Collection name
Reviews
91-93NM
"It has a clean and pure bouquet with subtle scents of lychee, citrus peel and minerals, tight at first but opening up nicely. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, a slightly waxy texture, very focused with hints of peach skin and spice on the finish. This is a well-crafted Folatières that may in fact surpass the 2015. This year I materialized at Dujac with palate raring and ready to go at precisely the right time - but on the wrong day. Nevertheless, Alec Seysses kindly guided me through the 2016s from both Domaine and Négociant. I always appreciate his candid assessment of both the vintage and the wines, and that was no different this year, even if we kept digressing into the perils of fatherhood and life in general à la ‘Pete and Dud.’ Though based in Morey-Saint-Denis, theirs is a quite disparate scattering of vineyards that were affected by frost to variant degrees, some unscathed while they only eked out ten crates of the Chambolle-Musigny Gruenchers that was consigned into the village cru. ‘We had one of the worst springs ever and then a wonderful summer. We were recently certified organic and in actual fact we found we used less copper in 2016 than 2012,’ Alex explained. ‘Also we have been anxious to get rid of SO2 in the vineyard that we feel could have led to reduction problems. It rained almost every day until June. At one time, we tried to spray three times in ten days, which has never happened before, since our vineyard manager had to turn round twice after the showers washed away the treatment. We started the picking on 21 September for the whites and 26 September for the reds (and the Monts Luisants), finishing on 4 October. You could choose when you wanted to pick [because of the clement weather]. But we had a lot of question marks. You had to keep going into the vineyard and analyzing the grapes, yet we felt that some were not expressing as they should that prompted us to wait. We used 10% fewer stems because of frost; nevertheless the fruit was clean despite some rot in the frosted vineyards. So in the end, the cuvées contain 90% whole cluster. The fruit was ripe and the tannins came easily; therefore we did more pump-overs than punchdowns.’ Alec enthused about his wines, commenting that he finds the acidity better in 2016 than 2015. There are certainly exemplary 2016s here, not least a startling Chambertin and a fabulous Clos Saint-Denis that I found had the edge over an atypically broody Clos de la Roche, at least on the day of my tasting (Alec mentioned that the barrels samples were in flux from day to to day). I also adored the Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts, which I rated above the frost-affected Echézeaux. It is at the entry-level end, including the négociant range under Dujac Fils & Père where the best bargains can potentially be found. I have a lot of time for the Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru, which performed extremely well in the 2014 blind tasting, also the Nuits Saint-Georges Les Cras, a debut release that shows good potential for the future."
Region
White
Country
Score
"It has a clean and pure bouquet with subtle scents of lychee, citrus peel and minerals, tight at first but opening up nicely. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, a slightly waxy texture, very focused with hints of peach skin and spice on the finish. This is a well-crafted Folatières that may in fact surpass the 2015. This year I materialized at Dujac with palate raring and ready to go at precisely the right time - but on the wrong day. Nevertheless, Alec Seysses kindly guided me through the 2016s from both Domaine and Négociant. I always appreciate his candid assessment of both the vintage and the wines, and that was no different this year, even if we kept digressing into the perils of fatherhood and life in general à la ‘Pete and Dud.’ Though based in Morey-Saint-Denis, theirs is a quite disparate scattering of vineyards that were affected by frost to variant degrees, some unscathed while they only eked out ten crates of the Chambolle-Musigny Gruenchers that was consigned into the village cru. ‘We had one of the worst springs ever and then a wonderful summer. We were recently certified organic and in actual fact we found we used less copper in 2016 than 2012,’ Alex explained. ‘Also we have been anxious to get rid of SO2 in the vineyard that we feel could have led to reduction problems. It rained almost every day until June. At one time, we tried to spray three times in ten days, which has never happened before, since our vineyard manager had to turn round twice after the showers washed away the treatment. We started the picking on 21 September for the whites and 26 September for the reds (and the Monts Luisants), finishing on 4 October. You could choose when you wanted to pick [because of the clement weather]. But we had a lot of question marks. You had to keep going into the vineyard and analyzing the grapes, yet we felt that some were not expressing as they should that prompted us to wait. We used 10% fewer stems because of frost; nevertheless the fruit was clean despite some rot in the frosted vineyards. So in the end, the cuvées contain 90% whole cluster. The fruit was ripe and the tannins came easily; therefore we did more pump-overs than punchdowns.’ Alec enthused about his wines, commenting that he finds the acidity better in 2016 than 2015. There are certainly exemplary 2016s here, not least a startling Chambertin and a fabulous Clos Saint-Denis that I found had the edge over an atypically broody Clos de la Roche, at least on the day of my tasting (Alec mentioned that the barrels samples were in flux from day to to day). I also adored the Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts, which I rated above the frost-affected Echézeaux. It is at the entry-level end, including the négociant range under Dujac Fils & Père where the best bargains can potentially be found. I have a lot of time for the Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru, which performed extremely well in the 2014 blind tasting, also the Nuits Saint-Georges Les Cras, a debut release that shows good potential for the future."
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The world's most influential fine-wine producer and the benchmark for Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone. Its appellation (AOC) system codifies geography, grape and method, and its wines set the global standard for age-worthiness and terroir expression.
Produces the world's most revered Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from a mosaic of tiny, terroir-defined climats. Its hierarchy of village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards makes site the ultimate expression of quality.
A pinnacle of white Burgundy, producing taut, mineral and long-lived Chardonnay of great precision and finesse.
The world's most versatile white grape, producing everything from steely Chablis to rich, oaked whites. Its neutrality makes it a mirror of terroir and winemaking, and the foundation of white Burgundy and Champagne.