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The November 2023 Auction: Part 4
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1 / 4Lot 440
Estimate: $5,000
Nicked wax capsule, #148/300
This auction has ended. Bidding is closed.
Collection name
Reviews
96-98WA
"A candidate for the title of white wine of the vintage in Burgundy this year is Lamy's incredible 2018 Criots-BĂątard-Montrachet Grand Cru Haute DensitĂ©. Unfurling in the glass with a profound bouquet of citrus oil, clear honey, fresh pastry, mandarin oil and dried white flowers, it's full-bodied, ineffably complete and multidimensional. Its caressingly satiny attack segues into a bottomless mid-palate that displays striking concentration without weight, framed by chalky dry extract. Long and resonant, this is a formidable achievement from a great vigneron at the peak of his powers. The 2018 vintage has turned out brilliantly at this address, and I run the risk of exhausting superlatives if I attempt to articulate just how much I admire these wines. In 2018, yields averaged around 50 hectoliters per hectareâsimilar to what was achieved in 2013 and 2014âand Lamy picked over the course of 20 days, saying that rapidly ripening sites tended to ripen especially fast, whereas late-ripening sites were not much faster than normal, reporting big differences according to both vine age and soil hydrology. Fermentations went well, though again there were big differences in fermentation times between cuvĂ©es and even barrels. And the resulting wines have turned out superbly, without doubt numbering among the finest the year has to offer. As I wrote last year, Olivier Lamy's meticulous and thoughtful viticulture is a source of inspiration for other vignerons up and down the CĂŽte: whether it's his high-density plantings, his practice of rolling canopies rather than hedging him, or his almost manic worth ethic, where Lamy is leading, others will surely follow. In the winery, more foulage and longer press cycles are the order of the day, capturing more structuringâand refreshingâdry extract. Long Ă©levage in barrels and demi-muids follows. And it would be remiss not to mention the domaine's elegantly perfumed but impressively concentrated red wines, well worthy of attention in their own right. In short, this is one of the two or three finest sources of white Burgundy on the CĂŽte de Beaune, and readers are warmly encouraged to acquaint themselves with these serious, thought-provoking wines."
Region
White
Country
Score
"A candidate for the title of white wine of the vintage in Burgundy this year is Lamy's incredible 2018 Criots-BĂątard-Montrachet Grand Cru Haute DensitĂ©. Unfurling in the glass with a profound bouquet of citrus oil, clear honey, fresh pastry, mandarin oil and dried white flowers, it's full-bodied, ineffably complete and multidimensional. Its caressingly satiny attack segues into a bottomless mid-palate that displays striking concentration without weight, framed by chalky dry extract. Long and resonant, this is a formidable achievement from a great vigneron at the peak of his powers. The 2018 vintage has turned out brilliantly at this address, and I run the risk of exhausting superlatives if I attempt to articulate just how much I admire these wines. In 2018, yields averaged around 50 hectoliters per hectareâsimilar to what was achieved in 2013 and 2014âand Lamy picked over the course of 20 days, saying that rapidly ripening sites tended to ripen especially fast, whereas late-ripening sites were not much faster than normal, reporting big differences according to both vine age and soil hydrology. Fermentations went well, though again there were big differences in fermentation times between cuvĂ©es and even barrels. And the resulting wines have turned out superbly, without doubt numbering among the finest the year has to offer. As I wrote last year, Olivier Lamy's meticulous and thoughtful viticulture is a source of inspiration for other vignerons up and down the CĂŽte: whether it's his high-density plantings, his practice of rolling canopies rather than hedging him, or his almost manic worth ethic, where Lamy is leading, others will surely follow. In the winery, more foulage and longer press cycles are the order of the day, capturing more structuringâand refreshingâdry extract. Long Ă©levage in barrels and demi-muids follows. And it would be remiss not to mention the domaine's elegantly perfumed but impressively concentrated red wines, well worthy of attention in their own right. In short, this is one of the two or three finest sources of white Burgundy on the CĂŽte de Beaune, and readers are warmly encouraged to acquaint themselves with these serious, thought-provoking wines."
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The world's most influential fine-wine producer and the benchmark for Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone. Its appellation (AOC) system codifies geography, grape and method, and its wines set the global standard for age-worthiness and terroir expression.
Produces the world's most revered Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from a mosaic of tiny, terroir-defined climats. Its hierarchy of village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards makes site the ultimate expression of quality.
Chassagne-Montrachet is a village AOC in Burgundy's Cote de Beaune with numerous Premier Crus, renowned above all for rich, nutty, mineral Chardonnay whites, though it also makes firm Pinot Noir reds.
2018 in Burgundy was hot and dry with a large crop, producing ripe, rich and powerful reds of generous fruit; the whites are full-bodied but require care, as some show lower acidity.
The world's most versatile white grape, producing everything from steely Chablis to rich, oaked whites. Its neutrality makes it a mirror of terroir and winemaking, and the foundation of white Burgundy and Champagne.