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The May 2023 Auction: Part 2
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1 / 2Lot 249
Estimate: $60
Lightly scuffed capsule, lightly marked label.
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Collection name
Reviews
91-93NM
"The 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru les Champonnets contains close to 55% whole bunch fruit and underwent less pigeage and more remontage this year. It is matured in around 35% new oak. It has lively black fruit on the nose laced with cedar and mint aromas that lend it complexity and personality. The palate is medium-bodied with quite tensile tannins and a fine line of acidity. There is a sense of plushness to the mouthfeel, with plenty of vibrant red fruit toward the finish. Great stuff! This is on par with the domaine's Grand Cru. If you are traveling the main thoroughfare of Gevrey village, avert your eyes opposite the best little retro coffee shop in Burgundy (‘La Jeanette’ if you need the name), you will see a brand spanking new sign for Domaine Heresztyn-Mazzini. I like to think I played my own little part. Upon visiting for the first time last year and asked if I approved on their ‘snazzy’ redesigned label, I answered that I did, but perhaps they ought to consider ‘snazzy’ new signage out front. The one rusting outside was unbefitting a domaine that is successfully reinventing itself. Sure enough, a few weeks later, Florence Heresztyn sent me a message with a picture of the new sign. Returning to the domaine, I was interested to see how both her and her husband Simon Mazzini had coped with what was perhaps a more challenging growing season than 2012… ‘We worked a lot more to reduce the quantity of the grapes during the growing season,’ she told me. ‘I wanted to get the concentration because a lot of people were saying the vintage was not good, so we decided we wanted a low yield. The grapes were cool when they came into the reception and we maintained a low fermentation temperature at under 30 degrees, in order to capture the fruit and not tannins. The Harvest began in Chambolle-Musigny on September 26, stopping on the Saturday because of the bad weather and started in Gevrey again on September 28, finishing five days later. Some vintages underwent less pigeage and more remontage and the malolactics finished very late, starting after Christmas and finishing around July.’ Florence and Simon did a good job in 2013, and while their wines do not quite match their 2012s, I suspect that they are in a different league than what would have been produced only a decade ago. Just up the lower end, did I feel that the limitations of the growing season compromised the quality of the wine. But when closer to home, especially within the Gevrey ambit, their efforts paid off with a clutch of pure and harmonious, terroir-expressive wines. Florence's deft use of whole-bunch fruit worked well, lending the wines freshness and perhaps just shaving off a little of the high acidity. I cannot wait to taste their promising 2014s next year."
Region
Red
Country
Score
"The 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru les Champonnets contains close to 55% whole bunch fruit and underwent less pigeage and more remontage this year. It is matured in around 35% new oak. It has lively black fruit on the nose laced with cedar and mint aromas that lend it complexity and personality. The palate is medium-bodied with quite tensile tannins and a fine line of acidity. There is a sense of plushness to the mouthfeel, with plenty of vibrant red fruit toward the finish. Great stuff! This is on par with the domaine's Grand Cru. If you are traveling the main thoroughfare of Gevrey village, avert your eyes opposite the best little retro coffee shop in Burgundy (‘La Jeanette’ if you need the name), you will see a brand spanking new sign for Domaine Heresztyn-Mazzini. I like to think I played my own little part. Upon visiting for the first time last year and asked if I approved on their ‘snazzy’ redesigned label, I answered that I did, but perhaps they ought to consider ‘snazzy’ new signage out front. The one rusting outside was unbefitting a domaine that is successfully reinventing itself. Sure enough, a few weeks later, Florence Heresztyn sent me a message with a picture of the new sign. Returning to the domaine, I was interested to see how both her and her husband Simon Mazzini had coped with what was perhaps a more challenging growing season than 2012… ‘We worked a lot more to reduce the quantity of the grapes during the growing season,’ she told me. ‘I wanted to get the concentration because a lot of people were saying the vintage was not good, so we decided we wanted a low yield. The grapes were cool when they came into the reception and we maintained a low fermentation temperature at under 30 degrees, in order to capture the fruit and not tannins. The Harvest began in Chambolle-Musigny on September 26, stopping on the Saturday because of the bad weather and started in Gevrey again on September 28, finishing five days later. Some vintages underwent less pigeage and more remontage and the malolactics finished very late, starting after Christmas and finishing around July.’ Florence and Simon did a good job in 2013, and while their wines do not quite match their 2012s, I suspect that they are in a different league than what would have been produced only a decade ago. Just up the lower end, did I feel that the limitations of the growing season compromised the quality of the wine. But when closer to home, especially within the Gevrey ambit, their efforts paid off with a clutch of pure and harmonious, terroir-expressive wines. Florence's deft use of whole-bunch fruit worked well, lending the wines freshness and perhaps just shaving off a little of the high acidity. I cannot wait to taste their promising 2014s next year."
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The world's most influential fine-wine producer and the benchmark for Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone. Its appellation (AOC) system codifies geography, grape and method, and its wines set the global standard for age-worthiness and terroir expression.
Produces the world's most revered Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from a mosaic of tiny, terroir-defined climats. Its hierarchy of village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards makes site the ultimate expression of quality.
The Cote de Nuits' largest Grand Cru commune, producing powerful, structured and deeply flavored Pinot Noir built for long aging.
2013 in Burgundy was a difficult, cool and hail-hit year with a late harvest and small crop; the wines are fresh, lean and classically styled, with bright acidity and firm structure, especially the reds.
A thin-skinned, terroir-sensitive red producing perfumed, silky and elegant wines of red-berry fruit and earthy complexity. It reaches its apogee in Burgundy.