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The May 2023 Auction: Part 2
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1 / 2Lot 243
Estimate: $170
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Collection name
Reviews
90-92NM
"The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers has a little more volume than the Lavaux Saint-Jacques if not quite the same breathtaking detail. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, quite structured, the wood a little present toward the finish, although that will be absorbed with time. I like the density here, the mass of this Cazetiers that should age over the next 15 or 20 years. Amélie Berthaut is rapidly becoming the most well-known winemaker in the village of Fixin, with the wines under her tenure gaining wide acclaim. That this has been contemporaneous with an expansion of holdings from her mother’s side of the family seems to have elevated her status higher still. With vineyard prices reaching stratospheric levels, it is rare not only to see someone young take over the running of a domaine and take it to a higher level, but to also be blessed with her family’s own vines upon which she can practice her craft. And to be honest, I cannot think of anyone who deserves it more. Nevertheless, she was not spared the onslaught of the frost in 2016, and I began by asking Amélie about the damage. “In Fixin it depends upon the vineyard. Some were affected up to 70% or 80%. We were lucky because we have so many different vineyards, and we are OK compared to other growers in Marsannay and Chambolle-Musigny. For some vineyards, we thought that the day after the frost it was really bad. As it turned out, the damage was not as severe as we expected. In Les Crais, 80% of the vineyard was frosted, but we lost around 40% to 50% of the average production. It was the oldest vines that found it difficult to grow again. There is no single-vineyard Gevrey Clos des Chezeaux. We started the picking on 26 September, and it was difficult to decide the order to harvest the blocks, and in the end we chose a different order to other years. We finished on 12 October in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits.” The outstanding wine this vintage was the Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques, a sublime expression of the vineyard that you would think had been crafted by a vigneron with dozens of vintages under their belt. Elsewhere, I admire greatly Amélie's Fixins that continue to demonstrate that this appellation could and should be taken more seriously by cognoscenti, particularly the Les Arvelets. Overall, it is another great vintage for a domaine that has enjoyed such a rapid ascent but is keeping its feet on the ground. Investments have been made in renovating outbuildings and installing some snazzy new concrete vats, but Amélie is taking everything one pace at a time. She already has some great wines under her belt. She will have many more."
Region
Red
Country
Score
"The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers has a little more volume than the Lavaux Saint-Jacques if not quite the same breathtaking detail. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, quite structured, the wood a little present toward the finish, although that will be absorbed with time. I like the density here, the mass of this Cazetiers that should age over the next 15 or 20 years. Amélie Berthaut is rapidly becoming the most well-known winemaker in the village of Fixin, with the wines under her tenure gaining wide acclaim. That this has been contemporaneous with an expansion of holdings from her mother’s side of the family seems to have elevated her status higher still. With vineyard prices reaching stratospheric levels, it is rare not only to see someone young take over the running of a domaine and take it to a higher level, but to also be blessed with her family’s own vines upon which she can practice her craft. And to be honest, I cannot think of anyone who deserves it more. Nevertheless, she was not spared the onslaught of the frost in 2016, and I began by asking Amélie about the damage. “In Fixin it depends upon the vineyard. Some were affected up to 70% or 80%. We were lucky because we have so many different vineyards, and we are OK compared to other growers in Marsannay and Chambolle-Musigny. For some vineyards, we thought that the day after the frost it was really bad. As it turned out, the damage was not as severe as we expected. In Les Crais, 80% of the vineyard was frosted, but we lost around 40% to 50% of the average production. It was the oldest vines that found it difficult to grow again. There is no single-vineyard Gevrey Clos des Chezeaux. We started the picking on 26 September, and it was difficult to decide the order to harvest the blocks, and in the end we chose a different order to other years. We finished on 12 October in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits.” The outstanding wine this vintage was the Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques, a sublime expression of the vineyard that you would think had been crafted by a vigneron with dozens of vintages under their belt. Elsewhere, I admire greatly Amélie's Fixins that continue to demonstrate that this appellation could and should be taken more seriously by cognoscenti, particularly the Les Arvelets. Overall, it is another great vintage for a domaine that has enjoyed such a rapid ascent but is keeping its feet on the ground. Investments have been made in renovating outbuildings and installing some snazzy new concrete vats, but Amélie is taking everything one pace at a time. She already has some great wines under her belt. She will have many more."
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The world's most influential fine-wine producer and the benchmark for Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone. Its appellation (AOC) system codifies geography, grape and method, and its wines set the global standard for age-worthiness and terroir expression.
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The Cote de Nuits' largest Grand Cru commune, producing powerful, structured and deeply flavored Pinot Noir built for long aging.
A thin-skinned, terroir-sensitive red producing perfumed, silky and elegant wines of red-berry fruit and earthy complexity. It reaches its apogee in Burgundy.