Sine Qua Non Grenache Profuga 2018

Reviews

98 · 97-100

98 WA “The 2018 Grenache Profuga is composed of 77.5% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre, 8.3% Syrah, 3.3% Petite Sirah and 0.9% Viognier. The vineyard sources are 38% Cumulus Estate, 35% The Third Twin Estate, 23% Eleven Confessions Estate and 4% Bien Nacido vineyard. Forty-one percent whole cluster was performed, predominately on the Grenache. The small proportion of Viognier was co-fermented with red grapes, but interestingly, because it ripens earlier, the white berries are frozen and added to the reds at the time of fermentation. As an added bonus, these frozen grapes help to cool and, therefore, slow the fermentation. The wine was aged for around 23 months in 37% new French oak, 57.8% used oak and 5.2% concrete. It was bottled on July 29, 2020. Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, the nose is a mélange of fresh black cherries, boysenberries, red roses and raspberry leaves with hints of cracked pepper, dusty earth, bay leaves and aniseed. The concentrated, full-bodied palate possesses the most gorgeous silken texture, nonetheless delivering a solid backbone including a lively line of freshness, finishing with epic length and lots of spicy fireworks. 1387 cases plus 600 magnums were made. ‘Naming wines is becoming impossible,’ Manfred Krankl told me last year in a fit of frustration. ‘Everything has already been taken. Even, 'No Name!'‘ After this conversation, his nearly completed registration of the name ‘Squeezebox’ for one of the new releases fell through. Someone had already registered that name. The wine’s name had to be changed to ‘Ziehharmonika,’ meaning ‘squeezebox’ in German. It was the last straw. The Krankl’s are done (for now) with new fanciful names for every new Sine Qua Non label each year. From 2019 onward, the wines are all to be called ‘Distenta,’ meaning ‘unlabeled’ in Latin, with a number to follow. Accordingly, the 2019 Grenache and Syrah releases this year are called ‘Distenta I.’ ‘I cannot say that there will never be a fanciful name again, but for now, we are trying to avoid the nightmare of litigation or removing labels,’ said Elaine Krankl. More importantly, the original artwork for the labels will continue to be different every year, as will the blending creation inside the bottle.” 97-100 JD "Scheduled to be bottled in August, the 2018 Grenache Profuga is based on 77.5% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 8.3% Syrah, and the rest Petite Sirah and a tiny splash of Viognier. Mostly destemmed (there was 41% stems from the Grenache) and aging in just 37% new French oak, this heavenly beauty has a rare mix of elegance and richness that just begs to be drunk already. Loads of kirsch liqueur, spiced meats, charcuterie, herbes de Provence, and peppery notes define the bouquet, and this full-bodied Grenache is flawlessly balanced, has silky, polished tannins, and a monster of a finish. Always one of the highlight tastings of my year, this report looks at the 2016, 2017, and 2018 new releases from Sine Qua Non. While splitting hairs, I think the 2016s are the finest wines here since the 2013s and have that rare mix of power, richness, complexity, and elegance that defines all great wines. While relatively approachable, the 2016s have the balance to evolve gracefully for 15 years or more. The 2017s are slightly more showy, sexy, and sunny wines, and where 2016s have similarities to 2014s, the 2017s remind me slightly of the 2015s with their huge aromatics as well as plenty of underlying tannins. These are worth hiding in the cellar for at least a handful of years. While tasted from barrel, the 2018s showed brilliantly and have a purity and elegance similar to both 2014 and 2016. All three vintages show incredible richness, flawless balance, and the purity and structure to age gracefully."