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93 WA. "So bountiful in sugar was this vintage, that not only did Dr. Loosen render Beerenauslese from most of the estate’s major vineyards, there is also a highly-affordable generic 2006 Riesling Beerenauslese. This displays a lovely dynamic of lemon and honey, a creamy richness, subtle suggestions of floral and herbal distillate, and the sort of polish, refinement, and well-judged residual sugar one expects from this great estate. If not terribly complex, it will hopefully serve over the coming decade as a window for many wine enthusiasts (especially as diners) to the unique balance and virtues (not least versatility) of nobly sweet Mosel wine. “My grandfather would have said ‘Too much Beerenauslese? Impossible!” relates Loosen. “But in fact that’s how it was this year.” (And hard though this would have been to believe only until recently, one cannot rule out there being another such bumper crop of botrytized, mega-Oechsle Riesling.) " Wine Advocate #179, Oct 2008 |